How To Pull Your Measurements

Trunk Box – Sedan (Sub Back, Port Back)

Both the subwoofer and the port fire toward the rear of the car (toward the trunk lid). Most common sedan trunk setup.

Before You Measure — Slide-In or Build-In?

How the finished box gets into the trunk changes what you need to measure and how carefully:

• Build-in: the customer builds the box inside the trunk (or takes it apart and assembles the final pieces in place). Standard measurements below apply.
• Slide-in: the box gets built outside the vehicle and slid into the trunk through the trunk opening. This requires very different, more careful measurements — and you should build a cardboard mockup of the box footprint before you commit. Slide it in at the angle you'd actually feed the box through the trunk threshold. Make sure it clears the opening, the lid seal, and anything sticking into the trunk on the way in. Most trunks are narrower at the opening than they are inside.

Before You Measure — Rectangular or Complex?

This changes how many numbers you send:

• Rectangular measurements: just give the narrowest value for each dimension (single number per dimension). Simpler, cheaper, works when your space is close to a plain box shape.
• Complex measurements: give me multiple numbers per dimension (widest and narrowest, top and bottom, etc.) plus a drawing photo with the numbers written on it. Adds a small design fee but lets me use more of your available space.

Measure

1. Height: From the trunk floor up to the underside of the rear deck (the shelf where factory speakers usually live). Measure the tallest usable height — don't stop where the trunk lip is.
2. Width:
   • Rectangular: single number, at the narrowest point (usually where the wheel wells stick in the most).
   • Complex: give the widest and narrowest points, plus a drawing showing where each is measured.
3. Depth: Measure at the top of the trunk space, not at the floor. The front trunk wall is usually angled because of the rear seats behind it, so the top of that dimension is the shallowest — that's the number I need. Take this depth reading at the far left and far right of your width measurement (not through the middle), because trunk thresholds often arc outward toward the center and would give you a falsely deep number if you measured there.
   • Rectangular: single number — the shallowest of the two side readings.
   • Complex: both far-side readings plus a center reading, on a drawing.
4. Trunk opening (only if you're doing a slide-in): measure the trunk opening's width and height. Sometimes the opening is smaller than the trunk itself, and that determines the largest box you can slide in.

Watch Out For

• Amp rack or spare tire hump under the trunk floor — if the box will sit on the floor, make sure it's flat where the box sits.
• Trunk lid struts (the arms that hold the lid open) — they usually swing into the trunk when the lid closes. Make sure the box won't hit them.
• Factory subwoofer or amp mounted in the trunk — note where they are so we design around them (or so you can relocate them before your build).

Trunk Box – Sedan (Sub Forward, Port Forward)

Both the sub and port fire forward (toward the rear seat). The rear seat back is normally removed or folded down so the sub cone and port opening are unobstructed.

Before You Measure — Slide-In or Build-In?

How the finished box gets into the trunk changes what you need to measure and how carefully:

• Build-in: the customer builds the box inside the trunk (or takes it apart and assembles the final pieces in place). Standard measurements below apply.
• Slide-in: the box gets built outside the vehicle and slid into the trunk through the trunk opening. This requires very different, more careful measurements — and you should build a cardboard mockup of the box footprint before you commit. Slide it in at the angle you'd actually feed the box through the trunk threshold. Make sure it clears the opening, the lid seal, and anything sticking into the trunk on the way in. Most trunks are narrower at the opening than they are inside.

Before You Measure — Rectangular or Complex?

This changes how many numbers you send:

• Rectangular measurements: just give the narrowest value for each dimension (single number per dimension). Simpler, cheaper, works when your space is close to a plain box shape.
• Complex measurements: give me multiple numbers per dimension (widest and narrowest, top and bottom, etc.) plus a drawing photo with the numbers written on it. Adds a small design fee but lets me use more of your available space.

How This Layout Actually Works

Both the sub cone and the port opening face the rear seat. In real installs, the rear seat back is usually removed or folded down so the sub and port are unobstructed and can fire straight into the cabin. This is not a "seat acts as a wall" setup — the seat needs to be out of the sound path.

Measure

1. Height, Width, Depth: same rules as the Sub Back / Port Back version above — same rectangular-vs-complex logic, same "measure depth at the top, at the far sides" rule.
2. Structural bracing check: look inside the trunk and note any factory bracing, cross-bars, or reinforcement plates in the top corners of the trunk. Snap a phone photo of them if you see any and put the note in Custom Requests.
3. Trunk opening (slide-in only): width and height of the opening, as with the other trunk layouts.

Watch Out For

• Seatbelt receivers and child-seat anchors (LATCH) that stick back into the space where the sound has to travel — flag these.
• Rear-seat mounting brackets and hinge points that stay behind after the seat back is removed or folded.

Trunk Box – Sedan (Sub Forward, Port Side)

Sub fires forward toward the rear seat; port fires out one side. Rear seat back is usually removed or folded down. Boxes for this layout are typically narrow, tall, and deep so the port has room to breathe out the side.

Before You Measure — Slide-In or Build-In?

How the finished box gets into the trunk changes what you need to measure and how carefully:

• Build-in: the customer builds the box inside the trunk (or takes it apart and assembles the final pieces in place). Standard measurements below apply.
• Slide-in: the box gets built outside the vehicle and slid into the trunk through the trunk opening. This requires very different, more careful measurements — and you should build a cardboard mockup of the box footprint before you commit. Slide it in at the angle you'd actually feed the box through the trunk threshold. Make sure it clears the opening, the lid seal, and anything sticking into the trunk on the way in. Most trunks are narrower at the opening than they are inside.

Before You Measure — Rectangular or Complex?

This changes how many numbers you send:

• Rectangular measurements: just give the narrowest value for each dimension (single number per dimension). Simpler, cheaper, works when your space is close to a plain box shape.
• Complex measurements: give me multiple numbers per dimension (widest and narrowest, top and bottom, etc.) plus a drawing photo with the numbers written on it. Adds a small design fee but lets me use more of your available space.

How This Layout Actually Works

The sub fires forward (toward the rear seat) and the port fires out one side — driver or passenger. Often the loudest trunk layout when you can pull it off. Like the sub-forward/port-forward layout, the rear seat back is usually removed or folded down so the sub cone isn't obstructed.

Design philosophy: the port needs unobstructed space on the side it exits, so the box has to leave clearance between itself and the trunk side wall / wheel well on that side. To make that work, these boxes are usually designed to be as narrow as possible in the width dimension and as tall and deep as possible in the other two — that way the port has room to breathe out the side while the enclosure still has enough internal volume.

Measure

1. Height, Width, Depth: same rules as the Sub Back / Port Back version. Depth at the top of the trunk, at the far sides of the width — same rectangular-vs-complex logic.
2. Which side the port fires: tell me driver side or passenger side in the Custom Requests field.
3. Space beside the box on the port side: measure from where the box will sit to the wheel well or trunk side wall on the port-exit side. That's the space the port wave has to travel through.

Watch Out For

• Wheel well intrusion on the port-exit side — if the wheel well eats most of the side space, the port can't breathe and this layout doesn't work.
• Factory amps or cargo trim on the port-exit side.

B-Pillar Wall

A full-width wall that sits right behind the front seats and seals off the rear of the vehicle. The B-pillar is the vertical roof support between the front and rear doors.

What A B-Pillar Wall Is

A wall is a box that stretches across the entire vehicle and seals off the rear cargo area from the front cabin. A B-Pillar wall sits right behind the front seats (the B-pillar is the vertical roof support between the front and rear doors).

Sub & Port Clearance — This Depends On Your Box Style

The wall itself can technically touch the front seat back — I'm not worried about the flat face of the wall touching upholstery. What I am worried about is the sub cone and the port opening having clear air in front of them:

• Ported B-pillar wall: account for both sub cone clearance AND port opening clearance — front seats need to be far enough forward that neither the cone nor the port mouth get choked out.
• 4th Order or 6th Order Bandpass B-pillar wall: account for port opening clearance only. The sub is mounted internally inside the box, so it doesn't fire directly into the cabin — front seats don't need to clear a sub cone.

How much clearance? See the "Leave Room For The Sub & Port To Breathe" section above — same rules (half sub diameter rounded up for the sub; smaller port dimension ideally 1.5× for the port).

Measure

1. Wall height: from the floor up to the headliner/roof at the exact location the wall will sit. Note: this may differ from the height at the trunk opening — measure at the wall's actual position.
2. Wall width: from driver-side inner panel to passenger-side inner panel at the wall's exact location.
3. Wall depth: how much space the wall has front-to-back before it hits something behind it (rear-seat frame, wheel wells) or in front of it (front-seat backs at their most reclined driving position). This is where the sub/port clearance math above matters.
4. Front-seat reclined position: put the front seats where a tall driver and tall passenger would actually use them — all the way back and reclined to a real driving position — and measure how much depth that leaves for the wall + clearance.

Verify Your Numbers Fit The Whole Space

A wall is not a simple rectangular box in most vehicles. Before you send measurements, verify the wall will actually fit at every location it occupies:

• Narrower top width — the roof usually narrows toward the ceiling. Your top width will almost always be less than your bottom width.
• Shallower top depth — the roof line often slopes forward as it goes up, so the top of the wall has less front-to-back room than the bottom.
• Wheel wells — the wall has to notch around them.
• Floor step-ups or step-downs — many vehicles have a rear-cabin floor that's a different height than the front floor. If the wall crosses that transition, factor it in.

If your space has any of these, this is a complex measurement — expect to draw it out and upload the sketch.

Watch Out For

• Seatbelt tensioners and B-pillar trim that stick inward.
• Roof-liner drop-downs (sun visors, coat hooks) if the wall goes up to the roof.

C-Pillar Wall

A full-width wall built in vans and SUVs, sitting right behind the 2nd-row seats. Bench 2nd row → port goes at the top of the wall; captain's chairs → port goes at center.

What A C-Pillar Wall Is

A wall that sits further back in the vehicle, right behind the 2nd-row seats. The C-pillar is the vertical roof support behind the rear door. These are built in vans and SUVs — sedans and hatchbacks don't have the layout for one.

Port Placement Depends On Your 2nd-Row Seats

The wall can touch the 2nd-row seat backs — that's not the concern. What matters is where the sub and port are placed on the wall so they clear the seat backs and headrests:

• Bench-style 2nd row (one long seat all the way across): port usually goes at the top of the wall, above the seat backs.
• Captain's chairs (two individual 2nd-row seats): port usually goes in the center of the wall, between the two chairs.

Tell me which layout you have in the Custom Requests field on the product form.

Sub & Port Clearance — Same Rule As The B-Pillar

• Ported C-pillar wall: account for sub cone clearance from the 2nd-row seat backs / headrests.
• 4th Order or 6th Order Bandpass C-pillar wall: account for port opening clearance only. The sub is mounted internally inside the box, so the seats don't need to clear a sub cone.

Clearance amounts follow the same rule as the breathing section above.

Measure

1. Wall height: from the cargo floor up to the headliner at the wall's location.
2. Wall width: inner panel to inner panel at the wall's location.
3. Wall depth: how far the wall has to extend backward before hitting the rear hatch / tailgate / rear glass at its closed position — and how much room to extend forward before contacting the seats or headrests (accounting for the port or sub clearance rules above).
4. 2nd-row seat type: bench or captain's chairs (this drives port placement).

Verify Your Numbers Fit The Whole Space

Same rules as a B-pillar — SUVs and vans have complex cargo geometry:

• Narrower top width (roof narrows).
• Shallower top depth if the rear glass angles forward.
• Wheel wells intruding into the cargo area.
• Floor step-ups or step-downs between the cabin floor and the cargo floor.

If any of these apply, treat this as a complex measurement and upload a drawing.

Watch Out For

• Cargo cover / privacy shade mounting points.
• Rear window defroster wires embedded in the glass — don't scratch or press against them.
• Rear hatch / tailgate swing — measure how far it swings inward when closed.

SUV No-Wall (Cargo Area Box, Subs Up, Port Back)

Cargo-area box with sub cones firing up and the port firing back toward the hatch. Rear seats stay usable.

How This Layout Works

The box sits in the SUV cargo area with the sub cones firing up toward the roof and the port firing back toward the rear hatch. Rear seats stay in normal use — this isn't a wall.

Measure

1. Height: from the cargo floor up to the bottom of the rear side windows. Not the ceiling, not the cargo cover — the bottom of the side windows. That's the height limit for the box body.
2. Width: inner panel to inner panel at the widest usable point in the cargo area. Also give the narrowest point if the wheel wells stick inward — treat this as a complex measurement if the two numbers are meaningfully different.
3. Depth: from the back of the rear seats (in their upright, in-use position) to the rear hatch opening.
4. Hatch swing: measure how far the rear hatch swings inward or downward when it closes. The box has to fit under it.

Watch Out For

• Cargo cover / privacy shade mounting points and rear window defroster wires.
• Factory sub or amp locations in the cargo area.
• Third-row seats — even folded flat, they take space and change your floor height. If your SUV has them, treat this as complex and upload a drawing.

SUV No-Wall (Cargo Area Box, Subs Up, Port Up)

Cargo-area box with the sub cones AND the port both firing straight up toward the roof. Used in hatchbacks and smaller SUVs where the box has to be pushed all the way against the rear hatch with no room for a rear-firing port.

How This Layout Works

The box sits in the cargo area with both the sub cones and the port firing straight up toward the roof. This is the go-to layout for hatchbacks and smaller SUVs where the box has to be pushed all the way back against the rear hatch — there's no room behind the box for a rear-firing port to breathe, so the port has to go up top instead.

Measure

1. Height: from the cargo floor up to the bottom of the rear side windows. Not the ceiling, not the cargo cover — the bottom of the side windows. That's the height limit for the box body and for the port opening on top of the box, so the whole thing stays hidden below the window line.
2. Width: inner panel to inner panel at the widest usable point in the cargo area. Also give the narrowest point if the wheel wells stick inward — treat this as a complex measurement if the two numbers are meaningfully different.
3. Depth: from the back of the rear seats (in their upright, in-use position) all the way to the closed rear hatch — the box is designed to fill this space entirely, so I need the full number, not a shrunk one.
4. Roof clearance above the box: from the bottom of the rear side windows (the top of the box) up to the headliner / roof. That's the space the port has to fire into. If it's very tight, tell me in Custom Requests.
5. Hatch swing: measure how far the rear hatch swings inward or downward as it closes — nothing on top of the box (including the port opening lip) can hit the hatch.

Watch Out For

• Cargo cover / privacy shade brackets in the side trim — the port has to fire past them without obstruction.
• Rear window defroster wires embedded in the hatch glass — don't scratch or press against them when the box slides into place.
• Third-row seats (if your SUV has them) — even folded flat, they change your floor height and depth. Treat as complex and upload a drawing.
• Load floor storage compartments (spare tire well, subfloor bins) — note whether the box will sit on the flat load floor or on a raised panel over one of these compartments.

Truck – Under-Seat

Box lives under the rear seat of a crew-cab or extended-cab truck. Front and back heights almost always differ because of the sloping floor — measure both.

How This Layout Works

The box lives under the rear seat of a crew-cab or extended-cab truck. It sits low and stays hidden. Because the rear seat cushion almost always slopes downward toward the seat back, front height and back height are usually different — I need both.

Measure

1. Front height: from the truck floor up to the bottom of the rear seat cushion at the front edge of the space (closest to the pedals). Measure with the seat folded down — that's the position the box has to fit in. Don't note whether the seat folds up or down; the box has to work with it folded down, period.
2. Back height: same measurement, but at the back edge of the space (closest to the seat back). On most trucks the back is shorter than the front because the seat cushion slopes down toward the seat back.
3. Width: full side-wall to side-wall width of the space under the seat.
4. Depth: from the front of the back seat to the back of the underseat area. Not from the back of the front seat — from the front of the back seat itself, straight through to the back of the space where the box will sit.
5. Obstruction photos (optional but helpful): snap photos of any floor humps, seatbelt anchors, mounting brackets, wiring bundles, or factory storage bins sticking up into the under-seat space. Write the measurements right on the photo if you can.

Watch Out For

• Factory storage bins that come standard in many trucks — usually plastic pop-out tubs. Measure their footprint.
• Rear HVAC ducts on some crew-cab trucks — they run along the floor under the rear seat.
• Drivetrain humps on 4WD trucks — the transfer case cover often intrudes into this space.

Truck – Behind-Seat

Box lives between the back of the seat and the back wall of the truck cab. Height measures up to the bottom of the back window.

How This Layout Works

The box lives in the narrow space between the back of the rear seat (or the front seat, on single-cab or extended-cab trucks) and the back wall of the truck cab.

Measure

1. Height: from the cab floor up to the bottom of the back window of the cab. Not to the roof — the window is the height limit.
2. Width: full cab width at the box location, side wall to side wall.
3. Depth: from the back of the seat (in its normal upright, in-use position) to the back wall of the cab. Measure at multiple heights if the back wall of the cab curves inward — this is a complex measurement in most trucks.
4. Seatbelt receivers and headrests: note anything on the seatback that sticks rearward into this space.

Watch Out For

• Factory sub or amp mounted behind the seat.
• Seat recline mechanism intrusion — some seats have a bulge on the back where the recline motor lives.
• Cab-back sound-deadening or trim panels that eat into the space.

Truck – Center Console Box

Box replaces or sits inside the center console area between the driver and passenger. The top of the box is capped at whatever height fits your build — no need to go to the ceiling.

How This Layout Works

The box replaces or sits inside the center console area of a truck cab, between the driver and passenger.

Measure

1. Height: from the floor (or from the console base, if you're keeping the factory console shell) up to the height you want the box to top out at. Pick that top height based on your build — the box does not need to run to the ceiling.
2. Width: between the driver seat and the passenger seat at their widest usable position (seats in normal driving position — not slid all the way in against the console).
3. Depth: from the dashboard back to where you want the box to end — usually just behind where the factory console ends, or up against the front of the rear seat.
4. Shifter and controls: note the exact location of the shifter, parking brake, cup holders, and any dash-mounted controls that must stay accessible. Snap photos with measurements written on them.

Watch Out For

• Airbag deployment zones on the dashboard and seats — do not block them.
• HVAC vents at the front and rear of the console area.
• Seatbelt latches mounted to the seats — need to remain clear.